Rather than follow the example of countless Brooklyn-bound restaurateurs before him, Pascal Escriout, the former maître d’ at Artisanal and a neighborhood resident, opted to plug the steak-frites gap in his own backyard. The apparently famished neighborhood fills the 40-seat premises for gently priced fish soup, mussels, homemade foie gras terrine, and plats du jour like cassoulet and coq au vin. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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