Peasant is exactly right. From its stunningly backlit brick-walled kitchen that features only open-fire cooking to its incredibly appealing pan-Italian menu, chef-owner Frank De Carlo has reason to bust his buttons every night, and you have almost too many reasons to undo a couple of yours. I like the little bowl of sweet ricotta cheese served gratis to the rowdy food scholars in the house, and I'm also partial to the gnocchi with morels and ramps in brown butter, and the perfectly oval pizza margherita with dollops of mozzarella. — Adam Platt

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