Staten Island

Enoteca Maria

Owner Jody Scaravella had his own version of the Field of Dreams mantra: If you build it, they will cook. It seems he was right, as the lynchpin in his daily changing menu is the half-dozen, give or take, rotating women chefs designing menus inspired by the delights of their home regions of Italy. One day, you might take a seat in the slim, urban-sleek dining room and find Sicilian specialties, like a frittata made with fresh artichokes, or pasta con sarde. Another day, you may be presented with a Marche meal of panini draped with sharp arugula, olive oil, and cured beef. Every day is a lovely surprise, as is Jody’s all-Italian wine list, filled with little-known varietals and regional better-knowns. Portions tend toward the demure, but each meal begins with a triple-sampling of complimentary antipasti, and ends with a freshly made sweet, such as biscotti. And if one of the chefs of the day is trying something new, you may end up as a guinea pig somewhere in the middle of the meal. Honestly, you won’t mind. — amy Zavatto

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