Hell’s Kitchen is hardly known for its wine bar scene, so this charming, crammed little spot is a welcome respite just off Ninth Avenue. The place highlights European vinos paired with refined small plates, which suits its warm yet spare setting, with big sunny windows and lots of blonde wood. If you only want a tiny nosh, go for the popcorn, which, on a recent visit was topped with lavender and honey, for an almost caramel-corn effect. The white Spanish anchovies are fresh and perfectly acidic, while each selection from the well-curated cheese menu is paired with a flavor accompaniment, such as the black-sesame brittle that accompanied butterscotch-y Beecher’s Flagship Reserve. However, the menu’s star is the cheekily monikered Pig’s Ass Sandwich, a surprisingly delicate little ciabatta number filled with succulent meat and lightly sweet pickles, spiced up with chipotle aioli. — Jenny Miller

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